In short: Cozumel is the largest island in Mexico and one of the best dive sites on the planet. It is 45 minutes by boat from Playa del Carmen. Its west coast, sheltered from wind and sargassum, runs along the Palancar reef and the El Cielo starfish sanctuary. Its east coast, wild and pounded by waves, is swimmable almost nowhere.
What to do on Cozumel
El Cielo is a sandbank in the south-west of the island where the water never rises above your waist and the bottom is scattered with starfish. You reach it by boat. It is the most photographed spot on Cozumel, and the absolute rule is never to lift a starfish out of the water: it kills the animal within minutes. Serious guides say so; the others offer to take the picture. Choose carefully.
San Miguel, the island’s only town, occupies the west coast. It is where the ferry arrives, and where the restaurants, the malecón and the shops are. You can walk the centre in an hour.
The east coast is the island’s other face: wild, windy, almost deserted, with a handful of isolated beach bars. Swimming is dangerous almost everywhere because of the currents, but the coast road is one of the finest drives on the peninsula.
Punta Sur park, to the south, combines a lighthouse, a crocodile lagoon, beaches and a reef you can snorkel. Entry is charged and the visit takes half a day.
Diving and snorkelling
This is the real reason to come. The Cozumel reef is part of the Mesoamerican system, the second largest coral reef in the world, and it enjoys exceptional visibility and a steady current that allows drift diving: you let yourself be carried along the reef without finning.
Palancar, Colombia, Santa Rosa, Punta Sur — these names are known to divers worldwide. The level required varies by site, and some, such as the Punta Sur tunnels, are for experienced divers only. For snorkelling, the shallow reefs of the south-west and El Cielo are more than enough.
The point few people know: conventional sunscreen is banned in Cozumel’s protected zones, as throughout the marine park. Chemical filters bleach the coral. Take a mineral cream without oxybenzone or octinoxate, or cover up with a rash guard. We go into the detail in our article on sunscreen in Mexico.
Getting there: the ferry
The ferry leaves from the Playa del Carmen pier at the foot of Fifth Avenue, one street from the beach and a few minutes’ walk from the ADO terminal. The crossing takes about 45 minutes, with a departure every hour during the day.
Two companies share the route, Ultramar and Winjet, at around 200 to 250 pesos each way per adult. Prices move and promotions exist: compare the two booths on the day, they are side by side.
If you are staying in Cancún, allow an hour by road to Playa del Carmen before the crossing. It works as a day trip, but it is a long day.
Getting around the island
Cozumel is 48 kilometres long: unlike Holbox or Isla Mujeres, you do not get around on foot. A rental car, a jeep or a scooter are the classic options for the island loop, roughly 65 kilometres, which takes half a day with stops.
Taxis are plentiful but fares to the south add up. There is no tourist bus network. If you are coming for the day from Playa, the simplest option remains a boat trip that includes transport and the snorkelling sites.
When to go
Cozumel’s west coast, where you swim and dive, is sheltered from the current that brings sargassum. That is a major advantage between May and August, when the mainland coast is affected.
From November to April underwater visibility is at its best and the sea is calm. From June to November, hurricane season can cause crossings to be cancelled: the ferries stop when the sea gets up, and they are the only link to the mainland. Leave yourself margin if you have a flight the next day.
Our trips to Cozumel
A snorkelling day at El Cielo, scuba on the southern reefs, the island loop: we run all of it, ferry included, from Playa del Carmen or the Riviera Maya, with an English-speaking guide. Tell us your dive level — it changes the programme completely.
No tours match your criteria
Common questions
Is Cozumel worth it if you do not dive?
Yes, for El Cielo, snorkelling on the shallow reefs, the island loop by car and the west coast beaches. But let us be honest: if you never put your head under water, Isla Mujeres or Holbox offer more for a day.
Can you do Cozumel as a day trip from Cancún?
It is possible but long: an hour by road to Playa, 45 minutes of ferry, and the same coming back. From Playa del Carmen, on the other hand, the day is comfortable.
Do you need to book the ferry in advance?
Not necessary in low season, departures are frequent. In high season and during Mexican holidays, arrive thirty minutes early: the midday crossings fill up.
What level do you need to dive in Cozumel?
The shallow reefs of the south-west suit beginners and first dives. The Palancar and Punta Sur tunnels require certification and experience of current. State your level when booking — it is what determines the sites.
Is there sargassum in Cozumel?
Very little on the west coast, which is sheltered by the island itself. The east coast gets more, but you do not swim there anyway because of the currents.
Let’s organise your day in Cozumel
Ferry, transfer, snorkelling at El Cielo, diving matched to your level, the island loop: we assemble every piece with local partners we know personally. Tell us your dates and your level.